By M.T. Schwartzman
I took my first cruise to Alaska in 1988 aboard the old Noordam — an ocean-liner-type ship with over 1,200 passengers aboard, which was considered big back in those days. The next year, I boarded my first small-ship cruise with the venerable but long departed small-ship operator Cruise West.
The captain of that boat was Dan Blanchard, who is now the owner and CEO of UnCruise Adventures, which today has become the largest operator of small-ship cruises in Alaska.
Over the years, I continued to go back and forth between big ships and small ships. The big ships became ever bigger: The Regal Princess I sailed on in the early 1990s carried nearly 1,600 passengers. A decade later the Sapphire Princess accommodated more than 2,600.
Conversely, I sampled the wares of new and emerging small-ship lines like Alaska’s Glacier Bay Tours and Cruises (which later became Glacier Bay Cruiseline), which for a time nobly carried on the tradition of small-ship sailing in Alaska. (Both the UnCruise and Alaskan Dream fleets include ships that previously sailed for the Cruise West and Glacier Bay lines.)
To this day, my fondest memories of Alaska are from those small-ship cruises. True to their promise, they did go where the big ships couldn’t and brought me closer to everything that makes Alaska grand.
In Glacier Bay National Park, I remember going ashore through a bow ramp for an impromptu hike led by a park service ranger. Another time, I recall the excitement onboard when we came upon a humpback whale “lobtailing” — slapping its fluke against the surface of the water to create a big splash. I saw bears foraging in the intertidal grasses lining the shore and sea lions basking in the sun on an outcropping of rocks. These are experiences you’re not likely to have aboard a big ship, certainly not at such close range.
We also stopped in ports rarely visited by the big-ship lines. I had never been to Petersburg, Alaska’s “Little Norway,” until I went there aboard a small ship. On yet another small-ship voyage I disembarked at Bartlett Cove, gateway to Glacier Bay, headquarters for the park service and site of the rustic yet comfy Glacier Bay Lodge.
Beyond the ubiquitous wildlife, little-seen villages and bucket-list moments, what I recall most vividly are the people I met, both passengers and crew. My fellow nature-loving small-ship travelers were of every age and from all over the United States. Often it was an international group, with one or two among us originating in some far-flung corner of the world, especially from Australia.
Small-ship cruises get you up close to the beautiful Alaskan landscape. * Photo: The Boat Company
Sometimes families would be traveling together, sharing the adventure and education of a lifetime. (UnCruise has a particular focus on multigenerational travel.)
The naturalists, meanwhile, shared our sense of anticipation for the next day’s adventure.
Many of the small ships sailing in Alaska today are the same ones I traveled aboard many years ago. Only one company, Lindblad Expeditions, has built new coastal ships for Alaska in recent years, these being the 100-passenger sisters National Geographic Quest (2017) and National Geographic Venture (2018).
Altogether, there are four major small-ship operators plus a few local and regional companies, with ships that carry less than 100 passengers (with the exception of ACL’s American Constellation), and many fewer than 50.
Their combined fleets comprise some two dozen vessels, including a few converted working ships, at least one wind-powered craft and assorted other boats offering a wide range of sailing styles to choose from.
RELATED: Ted recounts his early Alaska adventures by car, ferry, train and small ships.
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Here’s a Run-down of 7 Lines Offering Alaska Small Ship Cruises
- Alaskan Dream Cruises
- American Cruise Lines
- Lindblad Expeditions
- Maple Leaf Adventures
- Pacific Catalyst II
- The Boat Company
- UnCruise Adventures
Alaskan Dream Cruises
Alaska’s only Indigenous-owned cruise line, Alaskan Dream Cruises (ADC) is run by the Allen family of Sitka, who are of Tlingit descent. Its fleet consists of four small ships carrying 40 to 80 passengers.
One additional vessel — the 12-passenger Kruzof Explorer, a former Bering Sea crab-fishing boat refitted for expedition cruising — is available for small-group charters. (The Chichagof Dream, Admiralty Dream and Baranof Dream are former Cruise West ships.)
ADC’s trips focus on hiking and kayaking in secluded wilderness areas with a particular emphasis on cultural immersion.
RELATED: The Seldons review their small ship adventure with Alaskan Dream Cruises.
The 49-pax Baranof Dream. * Photo: Alaskan Dream Cruises
American Cruise Lines
Focusing on traditional port-to-port* cruises of the Inside Passage, American Cruise Lines (ACL) is somewhat unique among Alaska’s small-ship operators. In addition to Southeast Alaska itineraries, ACL has added national parks-focused cruise-tours for explorations farther north in locations such as Denali National Park.
For 2024, ACL’s sole ship in Alaska is the 170-passenger American Constellation; for 2025, it will be joined by sister ship American Constitution.
RELATED: American Cruise Lines acquires four river boats from the now defunct AQV.
*Meaning a less impromptu itinerary, unlike many small ships that mostly anchor in remote places.
The 170-pax American Constellation. * Photo: ACL
Lindblad Expeditions
One of the oldest names in Alaska small-ship cruising, Lindblad Expeditions has a history here dating back to the 1980s. Lindblad recently extended its partnership with National Geographic, which includes providing content and training for the line’s onboard programming.
In addition to four coastal-type vessels carrying 62 to 100 passengers that cruise the Inside Passage, Lindblad operates expedition ships in the Arctic on Northwest Passage transits that begin or end in Nome.
RELATED: An overview of cruising Alaska on a small ship.
The 100-pax National Geographic Quest. * Photo: Lindblad
Maple Leaf Adventures
Based in Victoria, British Columbia, Maple Leaf Adventures offers a trio of small ships. The 138-foot Cascadia is a 24-passenger catamaran with 12 cabins, all with private facilities. The Swell is an 88-foot converted tugboat with room for 12 in six cabins, all with private heads. The Maple Leaf is a 92-foot schooner accommodating eight in four semi-private sleeping areas and three shared washrooms.
Trips focus on wildlife, Indigenous cultures and the natural beauty of the Inside Passage.
The 92-ft Schooner Maple Leaf. * Photo: Maple Leaf Adventures
Pacific Catalyst II
Headquartered in Washington state, Pacific Catalyst II has two historic wooden vessels. The older of the pair, the Westward, was built in 1924 and has four cabins with en suite shower/toilet.
The second boat, the line’s namesake Catalyst, was built in 1932 and previously served as a research vessel. It has six cabins, four with private facilities.
Both vessels still use their original diesel engines but are also equipped with large battery banks for hours of quiet operation.
RELATED: Read more about Pacific Catalyst.
The 1924-built Westward. * Photo: Pacific Catalyst II
The Boat Company
Also based in Washington, The Boat Company bills itself as one of the world’s only nonprofit cruise lines, putting profits back into helping to preserve the Alaskan wilderness — for example to work to prohibit logging and logging roads in national forests. (More info HERE.)
Two vessels are available for cruises of the Inside Passage.
The Liseron was built in 1952 and once operated as a minesweeper. It accommodates 20 passengers in 10 cabins with private baths.
Meanwhile, the Mist Cove was constructed in 2000 by The Boat Company based on the Liseron, but with an updated design. It carries 24 passengers in 12 staterooms with private facilities.
The 24-pax Mist Cove. * Photo: The Boat Company
UnCruise Adventures
UnCruise Adventures, located in Juneau and Seattle, fields Alaska’s largest small-ship fleet with seven vessels carrying 22 to 86 passengers. As its name suggests, UnCruise focuses on outdoor activities like satisfying hikes and kayaking in hidden coves and secluded bays for a different kind of cruise experience. Some departures are sold as adult-only or family cruises.
UnCruise’s Legacy stern platform. * Photo: UnCruise
The line has expanded beyond its home waters of the Inside Passage to offer itineraries in Prince William Sound and, coming next year, the Aleutian Islands.
The Kodiak bear, also known as the Kodiak brown bear, lives on the islands of the Kodiak Archipelago in southwest Alaska. * Photo: UnCruise
(The line’s current Safari Endeavor, Legacy and Wilderness Explorer are former Cruise West ships.)
RELATED: Heidi shares “7 Reasons to UnCruise in Alaska.”
RELATED: A review of an UnCruise Legacy adventure in Alaska.
Plenty Included in Small-Ship Cruise Fares
The small-ship cruises plying southeast Alaska tend to include more in their fares than the standard giant cruise ships — namely excursions.
All the lines covered in this story include daily guided tours in their fares, from hearty hikes to kayaking and skiff explorations.
Some also include alcoholic drinks in the fares — American Cruise Lines and Lindblad Expeditions do, while Alaskan Dream Cruises offers a complimentary glass of wine or beer at dinner.
My Final Two Cents About Alaska Small Ship Cruises
Although the phrase has been used so often it’s become a cliche, taking a small-ship cruise really is the best way to discover “the real Alaska,” close-up and personal.
You’ll spend all your time immersed in Alaska, both aboard ship and ashore, and that, to my way of thinking, is what an Alaska cruise vacation should be all about.
M.T. Schwartzman has been covering Alaska cruising and tourism since 1988. His articles have appeared in a wide range of consumer magazines, websites and travel industry publications. He has also edited several guidebooks on the state.
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